Genoa is a vertical city climbing from the port to the hills. The caruggi (medieval alleys) of Europe's largest old town hide UNESCO Rolli Palaces, historic shops and the best fried seafood in Italy. The Aquarium is the Mediterranean's largest.
Genoa surprises with its dual soul: Renzo Piano's renewed Old Port with the Aquarium, and the millennial old town with baroque churches and maritime palaces. From here, Cinque Terre and Portofino are easy day trips.
Spring and autumn. Summer is hot and humid but Nervi and Boccadasse beaches compensate. Winter is mild.
Genovese pesto (with mortar!), Recco focaccia with cheese, trofie al pesto, farinata, fritto misto and cappon magro. Genoa is Italy's focaccia capital.
Caruggi for the medieval old town. Old Port for the Aquarium. Via Garibaldi for UNESCO palaces. Boccadasse for the fishing village. Nervi for seaside walks.
Cristoforo Colombo Airport (GOA) is 6 km from the centre. Volabus to Brignole in 30 minutes. Trains to Cinque Terre (1h), Milan (1h30) and Turin (1h45).